"Simple the best of Pantanal"

How did we get all the way to the border you ask? By the infamous death train of course. 16 hours bobing slowly along the tracks was a nice break from all of our recent activities. The difficult border crossing into Brazil was amplified by our non-existent knowledge of Portuguese. Along with an older Austrailian couple, we managed to get a cab and bus without even having the right currency. After a long 7 hour bus ride, we found ourselves in Campo Grande, the gateway into the Pantanal.



The "death train"

Not wasting any time, we booked a 4 day trip into the Pantanal the next morning. We opted to camp since it is cheaper and far more exciting. "Camping" in the Pantanal consists of sleeping in a circular room with a bunch of hammocks that all meet at a beam in the center. There was also a dining room, outdoor showers, and bathroom that housed the world's largest toads. That was base camp, and from there we ventured out on daily excursions.


"Camping"

Our first activity after meeting our kooky guide Gabriel was a night safari. We spotted several armadillo, caimen, deer, and capybera. The next day we woke up early and went on a 3 hour nature walk. We saw a variety of exciting birds, including some toucans, macaws, kingfishers, and the famous embratur. We also spotted raccoons (similar to their garbage digging American brothers, but not the same) and many howler monkeys. After a filling lunch of rice and beans, the group set out for a river boat tour. While the jaguars were feeling a bit shy and did not come down to the waters edge to say hello, the scenery still made for a great trip. After a nice dinner of rice and beans, we retired to our hammocks.


Strangle trees on our nature walk


Embratur, the symbol of the Pantanal


Plate of tasty Pirahna

The morning we got up and headed out on a jeep safari to try and spot some more crazy critters. In addition to the animals listed above, we also saw otters, an emu, and a big snake. After indulging in a heaping plate of rice and beans, we set out to try our luck again at catching pirahna. Now experts at this sport, we caught enough to add to the usual repitoire of rice and beans (Laura spared her pirahna's life and threw him back in the water). Saving the best for last, we ended our Pantanal experience with a leisurely horseback ride.


Riding through the water

We get wild in the Amazon

Gator showing off his pearly whites

We took a short bus ride to the dizzingly high and chaotic city of La Paz. The captial of Bolivia appears suddently like a mirage, as the terrian changes aburptly from flat brown soil to a stacked city surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of the city, we found a taxi and headed straight for a recommended hostel with our girlfriends, leaving the boys to fend for themselves.


Hectic La Paz at night

After settling in an orienting ourselves we set off to explore the nooks and crannies of the city- most notably the witches market. This is not for those with weak stomachs, as the smell of the commonly sold dried llama fetus permeates the air. After a wild night dancing in La Paz, we booked a 3 day wild life tour in the Amazon. We lucked out with a small group, which consisted of only the 2 girls we´d been traveling with since Machu Picchu.

Our flight to the Amazon was unexpectingly thrilling. We boarded a 16 person plane that dodged through the mountains hugging La Paz. We could tell we´d made it to the jungle as our clothes clung to our bodies in the hot hummidity immediately after stepping off the plane. From the tiny aiport we hopped into a jeep, which took us on a 3-hour bumpy and dusty ride into the jungle. Finally we were tranferred from the jeep to a lon gwooden river boat with a small motor.


A-list travel


Pulling up to the ecolodge, ready for a cold beer

Within minutes we saw tons of capyberas, alligators, turtles, and birds bigger than most humans. Since it is the dry season and the river is very low, we often had to jump out and push the boat through the piranha and alligator infested waters. Luckily we have no tragedies to report and all our limbs remain intact.We knew we picked the right tourest agency when we pulled up to the only campsite that advertised ''we serve cold beer.'' All the structures at the ecolodge are high up on stilts and connected by narrow walkways. The rooms are full of hammocks and beds protected by mosquito nets.

We spent the next morning searching for the infamous anaconda. After an hour of trudging through vines and tall grass, our guide spotted the snake curled up in a tree. No sign of Jennifer Lopez or Ice cube (reference: Anaconda 1996- a must see!)
After an afternoon siesta in the hammocks, we jumped back on the boat to catch dinner- piranhas! Using meat as bait and later sardines, we spent an hour trying to catch these sneaky suckers. Our patience paid off and eventually we got to hold a slimey Piranha with razer sharp teeth for the first time.


Whose for dinner... us or them?


We found you Mr. Anaconda!


Cabybera galore

We waited to return back until after sunset so we could see all the alligators that come out at night to hunt. With hundreds of glowing eyes reflecting from our head lamps, we floated down the river. Having to get our and push the boat under these cirumstances was nothing short of thrilling. Still happy to report, surprisingly, that all our limbs are intact.


View from the boat

We spent one more night in La Paz and had our last hoorah with our new friends. After a few tears we parted ways- Bolivia had treated us well, but it was time to explore new horizons.

The lake of Titi and Caca

Isla Del Sol

With news that the road strike had lifted, we took our chances and hopped on a bus to Puno, next to Lake Titicaca. The ride went relatively smoothely until we reached a bridge covered in broken stones and protestors refusing to let anyone pass by car. Luckily the bus company arranged for another bus to wait on the other side of the bridge, so we strapped on our packs and walked the long haul. One guy in our group was even interviewed by a local newscastor.


Crossing the road blocked bridge in style

After a less than rivetng night in Puno, the group decided it would be best to explore Lake Titicaca from the Bolvian side. We were excited to get our Bolivian visas, but a bit envious of our Aussie and UK friends who were not slapped with the $135 visa fee reserved for Americans.
As soon as we got to Copacabana we bartered for a private boat to take us to Isla del Sol, the Island considered to be where the first Inca rose out of the water. We had a 3 hour scenic hike across the Island overlooking the beautiful blue hues of Lake Titicaca the whole way. Our day ended with a lovely sunset on our relaxing and slow ride back to civilization.



The famous boats made of reeds


Our luxurious boat


Trekking across the island


The group



Sunset on the boat