"Simple the best of Pantanal"

How did we get all the way to the border you ask? By the infamous death train of course. 16 hours bobing slowly along the tracks was a nice break from all of our recent activities. The difficult border crossing into Brazil was amplified by our non-existent knowledge of Portuguese. Along with an older Austrailian couple, we managed to get a cab and bus without even having the right currency. After a long 7 hour bus ride, we found ourselves in Campo Grande, the gateway into the Pantanal.



The "death train"

Not wasting any time, we booked a 4 day trip into the Pantanal the next morning. We opted to camp since it is cheaper and far more exciting. "Camping" in the Pantanal consists of sleeping in a circular room with a bunch of hammocks that all meet at a beam in the center. There was also a dining room, outdoor showers, and bathroom that housed the world's largest toads. That was base camp, and from there we ventured out on daily excursions.


"Camping"

Our first activity after meeting our kooky guide Gabriel was a night safari. We spotted several armadillo, caimen, deer, and capybera. The next day we woke up early and went on a 3 hour nature walk. We saw a variety of exciting birds, including some toucans, macaws, kingfishers, and the famous embratur. We also spotted raccoons (similar to their garbage digging American brothers, but not the same) and many howler monkeys. After a filling lunch of rice and beans, the group set out for a river boat tour. While the jaguars were feeling a bit shy and did not come down to the waters edge to say hello, the scenery still made for a great trip. After a nice dinner of rice and beans, we retired to our hammocks.


Strangle trees on our nature walk


Embratur, the symbol of the Pantanal


Plate of tasty Pirahna

The morning we got up and headed out on a jeep safari to try and spot some more crazy critters. In addition to the animals listed above, we also saw otters, an emu, and a big snake. After indulging in a heaping plate of rice and beans, we set out to try our luck again at catching pirahna. Now experts at this sport, we caught enough to add to the usual repitoire of rice and beans (Laura spared her pirahna's life and threw him back in the water). Saving the best for last, we ended our Pantanal experience with a leisurely horseback ride.


Riding through the water

We get wild in the Amazon

Gator showing off his pearly whites

We took a short bus ride to the dizzingly high and chaotic city of La Paz. The captial of Bolivia appears suddently like a mirage, as the terrian changes aburptly from flat brown soil to a stacked city surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of the city, we found a taxi and headed straight for a recommended hostel with our girlfriends, leaving the boys to fend for themselves.


Hectic La Paz at night

After settling in an orienting ourselves we set off to explore the nooks and crannies of the city- most notably the witches market. This is not for those with weak stomachs, as the smell of the commonly sold dried llama fetus permeates the air. After a wild night dancing in La Paz, we booked a 3 day wild life tour in the Amazon. We lucked out with a small group, which consisted of only the 2 girls we´d been traveling with since Machu Picchu.

Our flight to the Amazon was unexpectingly thrilling. We boarded a 16 person plane that dodged through the mountains hugging La Paz. We could tell we´d made it to the jungle as our clothes clung to our bodies in the hot hummidity immediately after stepping off the plane. From the tiny aiport we hopped into a jeep, which took us on a 3-hour bumpy and dusty ride into the jungle. Finally we were tranferred from the jeep to a lon gwooden river boat with a small motor.


A-list travel


Pulling up to the ecolodge, ready for a cold beer

Within minutes we saw tons of capyberas, alligators, turtles, and birds bigger than most humans. Since it is the dry season and the river is very low, we often had to jump out and push the boat through the piranha and alligator infested waters. Luckily we have no tragedies to report and all our limbs remain intact.We knew we picked the right tourest agency when we pulled up to the only campsite that advertised ''we serve cold beer.'' All the structures at the ecolodge are high up on stilts and connected by narrow walkways. The rooms are full of hammocks and beds protected by mosquito nets.

We spent the next morning searching for the infamous anaconda. After an hour of trudging through vines and tall grass, our guide spotted the snake curled up in a tree. No sign of Jennifer Lopez or Ice cube (reference: Anaconda 1996- a must see!)
After an afternoon siesta in the hammocks, we jumped back on the boat to catch dinner- piranhas! Using meat as bait and later sardines, we spent an hour trying to catch these sneaky suckers. Our patience paid off and eventually we got to hold a slimey Piranha with razer sharp teeth for the first time.


Whose for dinner... us or them?


We found you Mr. Anaconda!


Cabybera galore

We waited to return back until after sunset so we could see all the alligators that come out at night to hunt. With hundreds of glowing eyes reflecting from our head lamps, we floated down the river. Having to get our and push the boat under these cirumstances was nothing short of thrilling. Still happy to report, surprisingly, that all our limbs are intact.


View from the boat

We spent one more night in La Paz and had our last hoorah with our new friends. After a few tears we parted ways- Bolivia had treated us well, but it was time to explore new horizons.

The lake of Titi and Caca

Isla Del Sol

With news that the road strike had lifted, we took our chances and hopped on a bus to Puno, next to Lake Titicaca. The ride went relatively smoothely until we reached a bridge covered in broken stones and protestors refusing to let anyone pass by car. Luckily the bus company arranged for another bus to wait on the other side of the bridge, so we strapped on our packs and walked the long haul. One guy in our group was even interviewed by a local newscastor.


Crossing the road blocked bridge in style

After a less than rivetng night in Puno, the group decided it would be best to explore Lake Titicaca from the Bolvian side. We were excited to get our Bolivian visas, but a bit envious of our Aussie and UK friends who were not slapped with the $135 visa fee reserved for Americans.
As soon as we got to Copacabana we bartered for a private boat to take us to Isla del Sol, the Island considered to be where the first Inca rose out of the water. We had a 3 hour scenic hike across the Island overlooking the beautiful blue hues of Lake Titicaca the whole way. Our day ended with a lovely sunset on our relaxing and slow ride back to civilization.



The famous boats made of reeds


Our luxurious boat


Trekking across the island


The group



Sunset on the boat

finding the groove in cusco

Machu Picchu

We arrived in Cusco in the afternoon after a short 1 hour flight from Lima. We checked into a hostel that friend from our trek reccommended. Pariwana Hostel is known for its comfy duvets and rowdy night life.

Narrow Cusco streets

Cusco is a very popular tourist destination for good reason. It´s an easily walkable city with beatuiful colonial architecture, a bohemian vibe, and travelers that dont leave for weeks. We spent 2 days wandering the city by day and and salsa dancing by night. On day 3, we piled into a van with strangers and embarked on our highly anticipated adventure to one of the world´s most perplexing historical sites: Machu Picchu.

Since the famous Inca Trail is both very expensive and requires booking months in advance, we opted for the alternative backdoor jungle trek. On the first day, we covered lots of ground speeding down to Santa Maria on mountain bikes. It was thrilling flying down the narrow windy roads. The climate changed from brisk mountain air to warm jungle humidity in a matter of hours. We spent the night in Santa Maria enjoying local beers and a "football" match with the charming Carlos, a potential future representative of Cusco. He even served the whole crowd chicken and potatoes to try and seal the deal.

We spent the next two days trekking along Inca trails, stopping to bathe in hot springs and play in the river along the way. On the third night we reached Aguas Calientes, a recently booming tourist stop and the base camp for Machu Picchu.

The scary traverse along the Inca Trail

The only way to cross the river...

We began our ascent at 5 am the next morning, starting early to reach Machu Picchu by sunrise. If you love the stairmaster, this is the trek for you. The trek to the top was 45 minutes of non-stop steps to the entrance of the site. Luckily our adrenalien and anticipation of the famous view kept us from thinking about our sore bums. Trekking in Huaraz paid off, as we were within the first 20 to make it to the top.

Machu Picchu trek at Sunrise

Looking down at Machu Picchu

Upon entry, we had a tour of the breathtaking Machu Picchu. Although many things are still unkown about the site, our guide was very insightful. We spent the morning soaking in the impressive architecture surrounded by the ominous mountains, with llamas roaming close by. It was fun to imagine what Machu Picchu would be like as a functioning society. Not quite done with our hiking adventures, at 11 we climbed the neighboring Wanypicchu. Even steeper than our first hike, Wanypicchu required crawling on all fours up very narrow steps. This hike is not recommended for those afraid of heights. We reached the summit red faced and sweaty, but the view from the top made it all worth it.

Sitting at the top of Wanypicchu

Laura takes in the view at the peak

Despite all the we had accomplished that day, our trekking was not over. Due to protests over water shortage, all transportation in southern Peru was halted for several days. This meant our luxurious train ride from Aguas Calientes (which can only be reached by train) was no longer a possibility. Our best bet was to walk along the tracks to the next town 3 hours away and hope that a taxi could reach Cusco. We were in luck and got a cab which eventually brought us back to Cusco around 2 am. Needless to say, it was a very long day.

We woke up the next morning to loud chanting in the streets and the news that it would not be possible to leave Cusco until the next day. We took a much needed rest and enjoyed the day with all our new spectacular friends from the trek who were stuck with us. We enjoyed each others´ company so much in fact that we all hopped on a bus to Puno the next day.

The Mushroom Lounge, Cusco

Hanging out in the artsy San Blas Plaza

On a high in Huaraz

Immediately after getting into Huaraz, still stale and groggy from our overnight bus ride, we booked a 4 day trek scheduled to leave at sunrise the next morning. The Santa Cruz trek has been rated one of the top hikes in South America and it did not disappoint. After a nice lazy day in cafes drinking mate de coca tea, we felt rested and ready for the high altitude journey.

Each day ranged from dry valleys to snow-capped mountains, with rushing rivers and gorgeous teal lakes in between. We lucked out with a great group of fellow hikers. Even though we would all pass out with exhaustion by 9 o´clock, we spent every evening sitting around a table in the ¨dining tent¨. Our quirky guide, Orlando, always had useful information to share, whether it be about the Cordilla Blanca or new card games. We were all sad to leave each other by the end of the trip and celebrated our victorious trip in Huaraz with one too many games of jenga and a pisco sour.

the group


Day 1


The wonderful mules that carried our packs and food


taking in the view from over 5,000 meters


taking a lunch break after the highest and most strenous leg of the journey. (Orlando on left)


smiling faces and smelly clothes on day 3


hiking to the last campsite


tired donkey after a long day´s hike


our last campsite by the river


Katja poses with some locals back in downtown Huaraz

Katja and Laura joyfully in ruins

After a day of traveling and more bus difficulties we finally made it to PERU!! We spent the day in Tumbes waiting for an overnight bus to Trujillo, Peru´s old capital. We were lucky enough to find a taxi driver to show us around and take us to his favorite spots in the city.

Carlo, our only friend in Tumbes


"The Kiss"


Katja takes the reigns

We woke up to Trujillo, a city clogged with taxi cabs as far as the eye can see. After dropping off our backpacks in a hostel and taking a much needed shower, we jumped into a packed combi (public van transportation) towards Huaca de la Sol and Huaca del Luna. Our surroundings changed abruptly from a busy concrete city to a vast open desert where the Moche civilization once thrived. The site was only discovered about 20 years ago and they are still uncovering bones and artifacts today.

Our trusty tour guide at Huaca de la Sol


A view of Huaca del Luna

After a decadent meal of cake and ice cream, we signed up for our second overnight bus in two days; we´d experienced enough city life in Trujillo and we were ready for the mountains of Huaraz.